Here's what you need to know, Basic Rules of the Tool:
- Can't touch the blade, it's 100% cutting area, and 100% blocking area.
- Holding hilt at different points provides different control options and leverage
- Double bladed staff is doubly dangerous to wield.
- Plasma energy, cuts through anything (that's the rule to act around)
- Magnetic Field containment of Plasma energy (theortically causes gyro-scopic feel, giving impression of weighted movement)
- On/Off state is unlike all other conventional swords, where blade lengths are permanent.
MATERIALS: Most blades being made today are of Polycarbonate. Do NOT use plexiglass tubes for they will easily shatter. There are many thickness grades as well. Keep in mind, when adding the tip to the end, the "shoulder" or edge of the tip should be made for the thickness of your blade tube. A handy "tip" to make sure your tip doesn't break off is to use clear heat shrink about 1"-2" long over the end of the tube up to the rounded, or pointed focal point of the tip piece.
INNER DEFUSER SLEEVE: Unless your blade is already the color you wish, or white, your blade will need a defuser sleeve to even out the light being cast down the tube from your source LED. Although many solutions exist, simple clear cellophane wrapping paper rolled into a tube and inserted down the blade tube creates a seamless and fibrous look. Use a smaller diameter dowel to roll the cellphane with to easily insert into the tube.
To find your starting blade length, orient the blade tip to be just next to the little toe on your foot. When you can allow your arm to rest comfortably at your side, blade pointing to the ground, where your thumb and first finger meet should be your proper length, from tip to the emitter/blade port. Make sure your overall length includes the depth of the port itself, another inch or so. A pipe cutter, or hacksaw are the easiest tools for this job.
The primary motion of light sabers are largely circular & sweeping, and have an inherent, given center axis, pivot or fulcrum.
Now, you need to find the Balanced Center Pivot. When your blade is attached and cut to length, balance your saber on one finger. That will be the center point of your fulcrum.
These X's here indicate examples of where the balance point is between different lengths. The movements of the saber, when wielded with a center axis in mind, are akin to a Class 1 Lever. This means you are applying leverage on a handle, like a water pump or a boat oar, to command the movements of the saber blade around that fulcrum.
Keep in mind the wall-thickness or weight of your Blade will also determine where the center point, or fulcrum lands. Adding weight to the pommel, or bottom of the hilt will also move your axis point without changing length of the blade.
NEXT: Saber Variants.